The Revival And New Era of Thierry Mugler

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Many, especially today’s generation, know Thierry Mugler through his iconic perfume, “Angel”. But to many others, they may remember the iconic looks worn by David Bowie, Beyoncé’s “I Am” world tour, Lady Gaga in her music video “Telephone” and, most recently, Kim Kardashian. For a long time, Mugler wasn’t the go-to brand for many, but in recent years it has made a spectacular comeback. Despite Manfred Thierry Mugler’s death in 2022, his brand and legacy live on through first Casey Cadwallader and now Castro Freitas.

I had the privilege of visiting the “Thierry Mugler: Couturissime” exhibition when it toured Rotterdam, the Netherlands, between 2019 and 2020. It was a fascinating close-up examination of Manfred Thierry Mugler’s work, and it was truly breath-taking.

Alan Strutt, Yasmin Le Bon, Palladium, London, 1997; Evening Standard Magazine, October 1997. Photo: © Alan Strutt. Outfit: Thierry Mugler, La Chimère collection, “La Chimère” gown, haute couture autumn/winter 1997–1998. ( Rotterdam Kuntshal).

Manfred Thierry Mugler © Max Abadian (Rotterdam Kunsthal).

Double-Breasted Power Jacket & Taupe Tailored Shorts

Castro Freitas was born in a small town called Santarém, near Lisbon. After graduating with a BA in womenswear fashion design from Central Saint Martins in 2004, he began his career at Dior under John Galliano, specialising in haute couture and celebrity special projects. From 2008 to 2010, he worked for Yves Saint Laurent as a womenswear designer under Stefano Pilati, and between 2011 and 2013 as a senior womenswear designer under Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. In 2014, he returned to Dior as head of tailoring under Raf Simons, followed by a stint at Dries Van Noten, where he was head of womenswear from 2017 to 2019. Along with the impressive training and CV he had upon graduation, like Manfred Thierry Mugler himself, Castro Freitas was a young dancer from the age of 6 to 17. Mugler was the first and amongst the best to put on a spectacular show; he was an original visionary.

Taupe Draped Jersey Loop Dress

Taupe Draped Jersey Loop Dress

A New Era- Stardust Aphrodite

It is not difficult to see his debut as Creative Director, the SS26 collection, as a tribute honouring the founder and his legacy, creating something sexy, bold, and very Mugler in many ways. In the fashion house’s own words, the Mugler Spring Summer 2026 collection “ignites a new mythology with 'Stardust Aphrodite', the provocative first chapter of the Trilogy of Glorified Clichés. Miguel Castro Freitas fearlessly reimagines seduction, sculpting the magnetic dualities of goddesses and cinematic temptresses into forms that provoke and transcend. This is glamour reawakened: a disruptive, utterly captivating force, magnificently Mugler.”

Blue Draped Loop Jersey Top & Taupe Low Waist Tailored Trousers

Blue Draped Loop Jersey Top & Taupe Low Waist Tailored Trousers

“I think that one of the most disruptive things you can do is to bring glamour back, maybe contrary to what happened in other moments [of Mugler]. What people don’t understand is that what Mugler did back in the ’80s was an answer to the culture of fashion. That’s what I want to do,” Castro said post-show. (Vogue.com)

Beige Embroidered Top & Grey Wide Pleated Trousers

Pink Illusion Lingerie Dress

A muted colour palette with pops of bright colours, the heavily sculptured hourglass silhouette, and the use of feathers, leather, latex, and iridescent embellishment all paid tribute to the brand’s DNA. It’s very clear that Castro dug into the archive and recreated a modern take on it, reminiscing about Thierry Mugler’s previous collections in the '90s. A combination of fringe dresses, broad sculptured shoulders, and chiffon pieces in exaggerated proportions and theatrical designs, it is seduction and a showgirl homage, executed with Mugler’s vision, though toned down to a more wearable version.

Beige Jersey Tank Top & Beige Pencil Skirt

Brown Sleeveless Bodysuit

“I did an archaeological dig into the essence and the ethos of Mugler. Most people associate Mugler with the ’80s and power dressing, which is a big part of the culture of the house — but there’s so much more to it. It evolved a lot from the ’70s to the ’90s.” He has just debuted the first chapter of this trilogy; one can't help but wonder what the next two chapters will be, one thing for sure, it looks like the brand is in another pair of very capable and talented hands for the years to come.